12-08-2015 Bought new American Racing Torque thrust II wheels.
I bought some new wheels from American Racing:
2 x American Racing Vn515 Torq Thrust Ii 1 Pc (VN5151) 8*17" 5*114.3 ET -11 Polished in front.
2 x American Racing Vn515 Torq Thrust Ii 1-Pc (VN5151) 10*18" 5*114.3 ET 6 Polished on the back.
GT Radial CHAMPIRO HPX 235/50 R 17 96 W dot09
TOYO Proxes T1-R 285/40R18 96 Y
08-01-2015 Reassembling the charger again
After the loose parts are all mounted properly I started reassembling the common parts of the body such as rubber bumps,stops, weatherstripping, waterstops, carpet, fueltank-filler neck, chome finishing details etc., etc
When installing the rubber and weatherstripping parts I used 3M™ Black Super Weatherstrip and Gasket Adhesive tubes, which I ordered from the US because EU has forbidden the use of this because of som chemicals which are not compaint on some EU standards. I also was able to order a complete set of all body gaskets and seals for the 69-charger. Before installing all seals and chrome/metal parts directly to the body I used a can of 3M body wax to prevent scratching and moisture to flow under/into the paint.
25-08-2014 Milling the wheels
When polishing the wheels there are more scratches and cracks in the wheel corners as I thought before. For that reason I need to Mill the edges of each wheel. Also I used my standard axle on my Charger which does not allow me to install the 10'' J vectors, because the axle is just to wide meaning the wheels will stick 2" out of the wheelwells. For this reason I also Mill the inside of the wheels to create more offset for dissapearing deeper inside the body wheelwells.
25-08-2014 Vector wheels
I bought a set of the original vectorwheels, meaning 10 spoke 15X8.5" J front and 15X10"J' rear. The wheels are in a used shape so a lot of grinding, polishing, fineline taping and painting had to be done.
21-11-2014 Body completely painted.
The body of the charger is now completely panted and the taillight panel is also painted matte black. Next thing to do is mounting the loose parts like: hood, doors, trunklid, front fenders.
30-08-2014 Dash, engine and transmission mounted,
After the installation of the heater control valve, I finally managed to fit the dash into the car. Since the dash was installed successfully, I was able to connect the wireharness (of both dash and engine) together so I could fit the complete engine and transmission in.
While disassembling the heater control valve the valve was broken where it slides in. Normally this is not such a big problem but even the rubber seals where cracked which will lead to leaking into the inside of the car. This part is not reproduced anymore, and most of them if you can find them are used ones.There is no place anymore to buy a new one as factory-state. I contact everry dealer and factory in US which produced them in the US for Chrysler in the early sixties. (most came from Ranco Inc USA). This company stopped producing the valves for Crysler corp. in 1974 and was active from 1955 - 1974. After multiple phonecalls and emails it seems to be Ranco produced almost the same valves for Volvo cars in the sixties in large numbers. Namely for the AZ/PZ (amazon) with s/n SKU: 673452 This one is 99% identical to the Charger models, only the frontplate seems to be different.The latest newley produced valves are available at classicvolvorestoration.com, thanks to Carlin Global.
12-08-2014 Made some progress
Finally I found som time to provide the site an update. The engine, transmission, suspension, brakes, dashboard, grill and wireharnesses are ready. I need to wait for the brakelines to mount under the body before installing the engine. I uploaded the most recent photos online, which you could find here.
The original grill of the charger was broken on many mountingpoints and some pieces are cracked and missing. To find out how I fixed it, please click here in order to view a complete photo-collection of repairing the grill. The old I-beam part was dented to hard to fix it so I had to order a new one.
04-05-2011 Sandblasted and epoxy-layer
Today I picked up the charger from the sandblasting-shop "stralerij vd Kerkhof" located in Veghel. This sandblasting-shop did a very nice job. They sandblast the complete body and also provided the Charger of a good layer of epoxy primer. Click here for more photo's.
25-04-2011 Charger completely stripped for sandblasing and welding
After a few months of sanding and welding, I noticed that this was not an efficient way to repair the sheetmetal and bodywork. Once I sanded one part of the body to perform a sheet metal repair, another part 10'' after the repair was also rusted and obstructed with filler. Also the sanding part on it's own was very intensive job to do. I didn't know what paint was used, but sanding it was a pain in the ass, since I could sand only for 2 minutes with one sandingpaper sheet.It just reminds me of sanding a block of clay. For that reason I decided to let the complete body and parts off and had them a sandblasting job.
16-10-2010 First movie of the restoration steps recorded by iPhone .
This is the first movie I ever uploaded on YouTube after I purchased my charger. Here you can see the first steps of the restoration proces.